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Date: 2014-09-26 18:25:13 Physics Physical geography Wave mechanics Coastal geography Coastal engineering Surface wave Radiation stress Cnoidal wave Sine wave Water waves Physical oceanography Oceanography		Microsoft Word - Document2 Add to Reading List Source URL: www.ore.hawaii.edu Download Document from Source Website File Size: 9,84 KB Share Document on Facebook

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$Water waves / Geomorphology / Longshore drift / Shoal / Wind wave / Radiation stress / Diffraction / Coast / Headlands and bays / Physical geography / Coastal geography / Physical oceanography$	19 where O u is the bedrock failure shape function and K „ is an empirical constant. Consequently, recession by abrasion is a maximum at the wave breakpoint (at a depth of about 5/4 the breaking wave height, rib) and DocID: 19Wlk - View Document